(tr)uSDX Forum

73 !

Thanks to everyone who participated in this device.
I made it successfully (tr)uSDX and made several SOTA activations already.Works great !
But this OLED type is absolutely not readable on field operation .. not even in the shadows in my region.
I made also devices with similar display. dmr-hotspot or ATU-100 tuner and theirs is 3X times brighter.

Is there another model ?

Thanks in advance

9a6cw wrote: ↑01 May 2022, 12:13 73 !

Thanks to everyone who participated in this device.
I made it successfully (tr)uSDX and made several SOTA activations already.Works great !
But this OLED type is absolutely not readable on field operation .. not even in the shadows in my region.
I made also devices with similar display. dmr-hotspot or ATU-100 tuner and theirs is 3X times brighter.

Is there another model ?

Thanks in advance

Hi, there is not.

Hi,

There is a solution (I've been working on this on and off for a while). Use a 78L08 off of 12V at the interboard connector of the main board. Put a 0.1uF on the output. Connect the 8V output of the 78L08 to C6 of the OLED instead of the wire from OLED Q1 (or U1 as some are labeled). Done.

73,

Robert, WA2T

Thanks Robert

I was thinking about that solution

73

Et Voila!

In the picture, you can also see my fly wire fix for the other type encoder with the outputs reversed.

Incidentally, I decided on 8V because the charge pump measured 7.65V on multiple OLED's.

Also, you can see my nifty removable OLED setup.

73,

Robert, WA2T

Nice solution !! thanks

wa2t wrote: ↑01 May 2022, 13:19 Hi,

There is a solution (I've been working on this on and off for a while). Use a 78L08 off of 12V at the interboard connector of the main board. Put a 0.1uF on the output. Connect the 8V output of the 78L08 to C6 of the OLED instead of the wire from OLED Q1 (or U1 as some are labeled). Done.

73,

Robert, WA2T

Hi Robert,

does it make the display better readable / brighter ? Is it worth recommending this mod to people asking/complaining about display readability outdoors ? Do you maybe even happen to have side by side comparison photos?

73 Manuel; DL2MAN

DL2MAN wrote: ↑02 May 2022, 08:23

wa2t wrote: ↑01 May 2022, 13:19 Hi,

There is a solution (I've been working on this on and off for a while). Use a 78L08 off of 12V at the interboard connector of the main board. Put a 0.1uF on the output. Connect the 8V output of the 78L08 to C6 of the OLED instead of the wire from OLED Q1 (or U1 as some are labeled). Done.

73,

Robert, WA2T

Hi Robert,

does it make the display better readable / brighter ? Is it worth recommending this mod to people asking/complaining about display readability outdoors ? Do you maybe even happen to have side by side comparison photos?

73 Manuel; DL2MAN

Hi Manuel,

Definitely brighter, not sure about outdoor readability but can check into it, I can take a photo of side by side with same display with 5V mod and 8V (this) mod and post.

73,

Robert, WA2T

There is another display, kind of, it's a white oled that just consists of the screen with the 30 pin ribbon, I'm thinking of getting one and solder it to a "donor board" it's black text on a white background. It's on digikey

wa2t wrote: ↑02 May 2022, 14:54 ...photo of side by side with same display with 5V mod and 8V (this) mod...

Here you go:
OLED powered by 8V is same brightness as using internal charge pump (but of course without the noise).

73,

Robert, WA2T

Tried both 5V and 8V OLED display power in direct sunlight. Result: 5V unreadable. 8V better, but barely readable. These displays are not going to work in direct sunlight unless there are some that are very bright (and then use the 8V mod).

Still a worthwhile mod IMO, and my personal units will have it.

73,

Robert, WA2T

Thanks for info and picture Robert, I ordered yellow and white display for test...
Of course we are not talking about direct sunlight...
and in most activations I look for any shade..
this small modification might help.

Ivica 9a6cw

Robert, thanks for mod information and picture. I will try mod too and let you know about the results at SOTA activation.

73 de Neven, 9A5YY

Will the display still work when powered just thru the USB connector?

Ohwenzelph wrote: ↑04 May 2022, 15:34 Will the display still work when powered just thru the USB connector?

Hi,

I was just about to post about that very thing! No, the only drawback to my mod is that powering the transceiver by USB will no longer power the OLED display. Until now, that is! The solution for that is a 1N4148. Anode to the 5V line (OLED Q1/U2) and Cathode to C6 - same place the flywire goes for the 8V mod connection. OLED works fine on 5V (now). You could even use a leaded 1N4148 with insulation added to the leads.

So the recommended mod for running the OLED display on 5V, except with a diode in the line to block 8V from 5V when running on 12V, and the 8V mod I previously described.

Here's a picture:
73,

Robert, WA2T

Great, Robert ! Thanks. I have linked it in the "Known Solutions" Thread in the Troubleshooting Section !
73 Manuel; DL2MAN

Nice mod that I'll do to mine.
Instead of a 1N4148 I'd be inclined to use a Schottky diode that has a lower forward voltage drop than a silicon variety. Using USB there would be less loss of brilliance due to loosing 0.6 to 0.7v in compassion to 0.15 to 0.22v with the Schottky.

Murphyv310 wrote: ↑05 May 2022, 16:46 Nice mod that I'll do to mine.
Instead of a 1N4148 I'd be inclined to use a Schottky diode that has a lower forward voltage drop than a silicon variety. Using USB there would be less loss of brilliance due to loosing 0.6 to 0.7v in compassion to 0.15 to 0.22v with the Schottky.

Sure, a Schottky diode will be even better. Although I doubt it will make the display much brighter when running on USB power, less drop/higher display voltage is good.

wa2t wrote: ↑01 May 2022, 17:10 Et Voila!

In the picture, you can also see my fly wire fix for the other type encoder with the outputs reversed.

Incidentally, I decided on 8V because the charge pump measured 7.65V on multiple OLED's.

Also, you can see my nifty removable OLED setup.

73,

Robert, WA2T

Robert,
What did you do to the pin socket to get it to fit together? Did you trim the pins on OLED and also cut the top of the socket down? If so what did you use to cut the socket?
I am about to experiment with different OLED and e-paper screens to get the best clarity in sunlight conditions.
Thanks in advance.
Bill - W3SI

Hi Bill,

I removed the pins from the OLED (some come with the header unsoldered) and put the long ends in through the top side (into the female header sockets), trimmed them, and soldered. The socket is 3.5mm header, same as I used for the inter-board connector, cut to size and the end filed smooth. The bottom corners are same deal but with a single header and socket pin each. It's a bit of a trick to get the header properly centered in those big holes, easy to burn fingers, but perseverance will get the job done!

Do keep us posted on your alternative display investigations.

73,

Robert, WA2T

wa2t wrote: ↑12 May 2022, 21:41 Hi Bill,

The socket is 3.5mm header, same as I used for the inter-board connector, cut to size and the end filed smooth.

Do keep us posted on your alternative display investigations.

73,

Robert, WA2T

Thanks Robert,
Now to find some 3.5mm headers!

I have 2 of these radios and a third Main board on the way from Up Tech Store.

I will keep posted about the display mods that work and the ones that don't. I don't spend a lot of time experimenting but I spend a lot of time in the shop.

Bill - W3SI

Here is where I got mine: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32994110363.html

73
a small change is worth the effort...
Here is picture of my modification.
78L08 and 78M08 has diferent polarity !!
73 and only QRO !

Ivica

wa2t wrote: ↑01 May 2022, 13:19 Hi,

There is a solution (I've been working on this on and off for a while). Use a 78L08 off of 12V at the interboard connector of the main board. Put a 0.1uF on the output. Connect the 8V output of the 78L08 to C6 of the OLED instead of the wire from OLED Q1 (or U1 as some are labeled). Done.

73,

Robert, WA2T

Robert,
I've got the OLED board unsoldered from mainboard v1.0. How did you secure the 78L08 and capacitor to the mainboard?

Thanks,
John K1JD

JohnK1JD wrote: ↑29 May 2022, 13:48

wa2t wrote: ↑01 May 2022, 13:19 Hi,

There is a solution (I've been working on this on and off for a while). Use a 78L08 off of 12V at the interboard connector of the main board. Put a 0.1uF on the output. Connect the 8V output of the 78L08 to C6 of the OLED instead of the wire from OLED Q1 (or U1 as some are labeled). Done.

73,

Robert, WA2T

Robert,
I've got the OLED board unsoldered from mainboard v1.0. How did you secure the 78L08 and capacitor to the mainboard?

Thanks,
John K1JD

Hi John,

Scrape away solder mask in appropriate places to make ground contact and do not scrape in other places where ground contact is not needed/wanted. Solder down parts, etc.

73,

Robert, WA2T